Granada, Nicaragua Return to Granada to renew tourist visa. - (49) more edit 2008-03-04 - rec# 177

Well, it's time to renew my "tourist visa". This visa is good for three months and is renewed by leaving the country for 72 hours and then returning. If they let you in...you're in for another three months, unless you leave and they don't let you back in. Otherwise you can stay, unless you overstay the three months and get caught (by whom?) and then you need to leave...I guess for 72 hours. Clear? I wish it were clearer to me... Sonja, a new friend from Germany needed to leave to renew her visa the end of February, I needed to leave the beginning of March. Last time I came into the country migration looked at me with great suspicion because I had so many stamps in my passport. I thought at that time that the gig was up, that I was going to be deported, but at the last minute she got out the old rubber stamp and hit the book. I was in (for three months...). My friend, Elvira came up with the idea that Sonja, Elvira, Lucila (another dear tica friend) and I should all go together. We could spend the time together exploring the city, Sonja and I would get a new lease on life and Elvira and Sonja would be there to try to help if I had any problems, having so many stamps and all. We would leave the end of February. Will, first Lucila dropped out. She had too much to do and wanted to save some money. Then Elvira couldn't go the end of February, she would need to wait until 4 March because of some paperwork issues. Sonja couldn't wait and went alone. Then on the day before we (now two) were go to Elvira had a problem with her car registration and would need to wait an extra day. I would go alone and she'd meet me the next day in Granada. OK...I can do that! On the bus ride over I met an interesting group of three Canadians that were going to Granada to explore. They had been in Jaco and were continuing their trip in Nicaragua. We talked a bit on the bus and got to know each other. When we got off the bus (10pm!) they had no reservations for a place to stay and I suggested that they may be interested in the hotel I was going to. I was able to tell them a bit about the rates and the location and they agreed to come with me and check things out. Liking the place, they stayed. This is the first time I was in Nicaragua since the elections of Ortega. I was looking forward to see if and what had changed. I've been hearing bad things. But, I saw a city that seemed to be growing. New street projects, new restaurants, lots of new paint. In Granada one thing I always look at for a sense of the health of the city is the horses. Granada is a city powered by horses. Horse drawn carts carriage tourists, garbage, pipe, wood, food, families, everything. This time I saw some of the healthiest (and sickest) horses I've seen there, and I think...more horses than in past years. On Wednesday I took a long walk down to the lake. I was there in the morning, but it was deserted. Lots of bars, restaurants and hotels, but nobody there. I hope the lake is a night hot spot, there was nothing going on in the morning. Around lunchtime I ran across my Canadian friends. They had been to the bus station to make reservations to leave on Thursday, but couldn't. The bus was full, they would have to wait until Friday to leave. I would also need to make reservations, but couldn't until Elvira arrived. We would need to be on the same bus, but to make the reservation one needs a passport and original ticket. She would arrive that night. We would need to go to the bus terminal first thing Thursday to try to get a reservation for Friday. She did not show up that night. This put me in a small bind. If I was to return on Friday I would need to make the reservation first thing on Thursday. Without Elvira I would be making the reservation without any promise that she would be able to make the same bus if she arrived on Thursday, but I needed to do something, so I went ahead and tried to make the reservation for Friday...alone. There was space on the last bus, so I took it. Same bus my Canadian friends were going to be on. There is a market in Granada. I've never seen a market like it any other place I've been. It's so crowded, smelly, dirty and full of interesting people. Every day I went down there with my camera. I'm a bit uncomfortable taking pictures of people. People aren't something on display for the tourists, but they, also, are the most interesting part of any trip. So with caution I look for subjects. In any case it's a great place to explore. That afternoon I walked back to the lake. On the way there I come across a group of small kids struggling with a large wooden table. They are trying to get it up over the curb and on the sidewalk. I offer to help and we get it up on the sidewalk. They thank me and then continue on up the street with the table. They look like four ants carrying this large prize back to the nest. Tiny legs scurrying in harmony, slowly moving this great burden along it's path. It's really great to see how kids work and play together here in Central America. Something I haven't seen in the US for decades. A man came up behind me and started talking. He said he was a soldier and had been shot by Bush's army. He showed me what I recognized as bullet wounds. One in his leg and one alongside his scalp. He asks if I can help him and I give him something like c30 that I have with me. He says that he has only one shirt and can I give him another. I say that I have some extras at the hotel. He says he needs pain meds and that they cost $2 a box. He wants to meet me in the park at 7pm and I can give him some clothes. I agree. On the way back I come across about 4 little kids carrying some stuff, umbrellas, chairs, sticks. They ask for money, I say (truthfully) that I don't have any. That evening I go out to a ribs place and have a really nice supper. It's a time of reflection. Here I am, eating this great meal. There's a man out there with a bullet in his ankle who has only one shirt. I suspect NOT having ribs. I have a couple of shirts, but is this a set up? An ambush? Is it safe to meet him? If I can help...how can I not? It's easy to say no to kids asking for handouts. They are just asking because they're fishing. I don't want to be part of a system that teaches them that they can/should live on handouts. They'll be OK. They were healthy, happy and I suspect well taken care of. They had a future. One that should not include begging. It's hard to know what to do about the other case. He was in need. Or, was he just a druggie. Can I NOT help if he needs food, meds, a shirt? Should I help if he needs drugs, booze? Where IS my responsibility. Am I to put myself in danger? I find this a hard call and an unjust world. Elvira never showed up. I returned with my three Canadian companions to San Jose. I was supposed to come here in a foursome. I didn't, but I left in one... Turned out that Elvira had gotten sick. Tried to delay coming, but never got better in time. It's better for her that she be sick at home than in another country, so it worked out the best for her. I knew it would have had to have been something important for her to now show up. I'm very happy it didn't turn out out that we had missed each other in Granada. THAT would have been a problem!